Burberry’s chequered past:
Burberry was founded in 1856 by 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice who went on to establish the company’s name in innovative, functional outdoor wear and accompaniments by focusing on the development of gabardine over the next 25 years. Gabardine is a hardwearing, water-resistant, yet breathable, fabric, because the yarn is waterproofed before weaving. Famous folk such as explorers Major F.G. Jackson, Ronald Amundsen, Robert Scott and Ernest Shackelton plus aviators Claude Grahame-White John Alcock and Arthur Whitten Brown bedecked themselves in Thomas’s reliable attire when achieving new goals. The British War Office even commissioned Thomas Burberry to adapt his water and tear proof gabardine overcoat for warfare. Thus, his company produced, by adding shoulder straps and D-rings, the Burberry trench coat. It is said the D-rings were added for attaching map cases or swords. Others say that hand grenades were hung from the D-rings? Burberry trench coats are the most famous item they produce to this day. Also, gabardine was used for the manufacture of tents.
Though in 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum" - meaning forwards - on a flag carried by the knight in shining armour with Burberry registering this as their trademark. Burberry traditional styles of clothing and itsEnglishness is admired worldwide and worn by owners of the label with great pride. The armour of the logo signifies the protection afforded by their outerwear, the "Chivalry of Knighthood" reflects the company's own standards of integrity.
Burberry has a distinctive check pattern that has become one of its most widely copied trademarks too, their nova/house check. The check pattern is used within the lining of jackets, flecks of nova can be discreetly used on items of clothing and there is full on in your face hats, shirts and accessories. Though their nova scarves, especially the cashmere ones, are enduring and are still seen worn at the match to this day. But on the other hand, Burberry check were another label adopted in abundance by the Chav element. This, and a certain type of match going lad wearing the clothing, lead to pubs and clubs not allowing wearers entry, such was the check’s stigma. Birmingham’s Zulu Armywere notorious for being kitted out in Burberry, acquired by whatever means. Aquascutum and Daks seem to have always come secondly to Burberry.
The original beige Burberry golf jacket, with its check lining, cuffs and under collar and the embroidered prorsum knight strap over neck button fastener, which also featured a straight cut lower hem with buckle adjustments, were a classic garment donned by lads in the early to mid-Eighties, and beyond. Over a period of time these golf jackets have been reissued in other colours including grey, navy, olive green and red, along with variations of the basic design too.
I can recall a FA Cup game at Middlesbrough back in the mid-Eighties and, a host lads I were with wearing both the beige and navy nova check Burberry scarves: . Ayresome Park wasn’t the most inviting of places at the best of times, and it is minging in winter. The lads I travelled with were also a little wary of what lay in store that day. ‘Boro were perched at the top of the old Third Division, and we, North End, were second in the Fourth. Obviously they were hot favourites to win - but enter little Ronnie Hildersley. He hit a screaming shot just passed the halfway line with the ball ending up nestled in the back of the ‘Boro net putting Preston 1-0 up. ‘Boro never looked like getting back into the match after that.
To our left, the natives were getting restless. And nearing the end of the game near 500 blokes thought fence climbing was part of the entrance fee. Neanderthal cavemen, big growlers and lads all wanting a piece of us. The police and stewards then started using water hoses to calm them down. Coppers were also whacking the ‘Boro collective on their sausage like fingers through the meshing with their clobber and donkey jackets now dripping wet. A few looked like they could do with a good wash as if they’d just come from the steel works or the docks. They are known locally as the Smoggies, and I’m sure that chemical fumes in the atmosphere in and around Teeside from all the over sized chimneys and water coolers had made them disfigured and crazy?
Nearing the end of the match, the lads began to feel a nip in the air and commenced to zip up the ski jackets and wrap Burberry scarves around the lower half of their faces. It were very, very chilly indeed, I tell ya. The Old Bill proceeded to pull the scarves down saying they couldn’t conceal their identities. Only most hadn’t enveloped their lower boat race to hide their selfhood but, to quell the frothing from the mouths freezing or, to absorb their tears of fears cascading down their cheeks.
The final whistle blows and we’re out onto the street behind the stand... A few pairs of soil stained Y-fronts would have been thrown away that day I bet, after the scenes witnessed outside the ground!
In my wardrobe I've a three-quarter length Mac and, of course, the obligatory nova scarf because, the Burberry label is a upholder of principle.
Words by William Routledge. Author of ‘Oh yes, Oh yes, We are the PPS’ and the soon to be released ‘Northern Monkeys’.
